How to Choose the Right Vintage Shirt Size
Vintage shirts are designed to be worn with a looser fit than modern slim-fit styles. This guide will help you choose the right size to ensure optimal comfort, authentic proportions, and a true vintage look with HabilleurJean!
Why Do Vintage Shirts Fit Differently?
Unlike slim-fit or tailored shirts, vintage shirts are designed to provide a relaxed fit and greater freedom of movement. The shoulders may sit slightly wider, the chest is roomier, and the overall length is more generous. This is not a sizing mistake, it is an intentional design choice that defines authentic vintage style.
How to Read Our Size Guide
All measurements shown on our product pages are taken with the garment laid flat and are expressed in centimeters. If you're between two sizes, we recommend choosing the larger one to preserve the relaxed, comfortable vintage fit.
Essential Measurements
1. Collar / Neck Circumference
The collar measurement is essential if you plan to wear the shirt with a tie; otherwise, it is optional.
If you intend to wear the shirt fully buttoned with a tie, the collar should feel comfortable without being tight. You should be able to fit one finger between your neck and the collar.
If you prefer to wear the shirt with the collar open (without a tie), a slightly larger collar is perfectly acceptable and true to the vintage aesthetic. In fact, many vintage shirts are designed to be worn open at the neck, creating a relaxed and effortless look.
To measure your neck circumference, wrap a measuring tape around the base of your neck without pulling it tight. Slip one finger between the tape and your neck to ensure a comfortable fit, then note the measurement.
When choosing a shirt, we recommend adding up to1 cm (0.4 in) to your neck measurement before comparing it with our size chart. This will help you achieve a comfortable fit while preserving the authentic vintage style.
2. Chest (Armpit to Armpit)
This is one of the most important measurements, as it determines the overall fit and comfort of the shirt. For a vintage fit, we recommend allowing approximately 12 to 18 cm (5 to 7 inches) of ease compared to your chest circumference.
To measure the chest on the garment, lay the shirt flat and measure from one armpit seam to the other, from left to right (see the image at the top of the article).
3. Shoulder Width
Shoulder width plays a key role in how a vintage shirt drapes. The shoulder seam may extend slightly beyond your natural shoulder bone for an authentic, relaxed look. This is completely normal, as vintage shirts are designed to fit looser than modern shirts.
To measure the shoulders, measure from one shoulder seam to the other, from left to right (see the image at the top of the article).
4. Overall Length
The overall length has a significant impact on the shirt's silhouette. Vintage shirts are generally longer, allowing them to be worn tucked in or untucked without disrupting the overall look.
To measure the overall length, measure from the highest point of the shirt down to the bottom hem (see the image at the top of the article).
Additional Measurements (Optional)
Sleeve Length
Sleeve length is provided mainly as a reference. In vintage fashion, slightly longer sleeves are perfectly acceptable, especially if you like to roll them up (see the image at the top of the article for the measurement).
Waist
The waist measurement is optional and provided primarily for reference.
Vintage shirts are intentionally designed with a straight, relaxed fit rather than being tailored or slim-fitting. A boxy or slightly square silhouette is part of the original design and contributes to a comfortable, laid-back look.
If you're looking for an authentic vintage fit, the waist measurement should not be a deciding factor. Extra room around the waist is completely normal and enhances both comfort and freedom of movement.
If you prefer a slightly cleaner silhouette while maintaining a vintage aesthetic, you can use this measurement as a guide, but it should never feel restrictive.
See the image at the top of the article for the measurement.
Final Tip
The best way to choose your size is to compare these measurements with those of a shirt you already own and enjoy wearing with a relaxed fit.